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Forums | General Technical Forum | extremely technical writeup of prorock44 install Thread Closed Send Topic To a Friend
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chrispy
, CO
Club Member
Posted - 18 September 2013 0:41  Show Profile  Email Poster  Edit or Delete Message  GoTo Member Rides
well, i got my rig back tonight, and its flawless. the guys at Northridge4x4 in Colorado really did a great job on it.

ended up with:

JK Prorock44 housing. 1/2" tubes..
"Spicer for life" shafts
Synergy Chromoly tie rod
Synergy ball joints
Reid Racing Knuckles
Synergy Track bar bracket
synergy tie rod clamp
Synergy Front sway bar links.
Synergy stabilizer relocation bracket
Bilstein Steering dampener.


the death wobble ive been fighting for the past 2 years is gone. due to the flooding, i had to drive 120 miles today to get home, (vs the 40 miles i would have had to take if the canyons weren't destroyed), at speeds between 30 and 80+mph and it tracked true, no hint of vibration.


anyway...Following is the EXTREMELY in depth and technically detailed write up of the install. please let me know if I miss anything...

1. The Prorock44 arrives on a pallet. as you can see, some stuff not for my Jeep arrived on the same pallet.



2. the Prorock44 is now installed.


JN JEEP 2
Centralia, IL
Club Member
Posted - 18 September 2013 6:57  Show Profile  Email Poster  Edit or Delete Message  GoTo Member Rides
Can you get a better pic of the pallet? I'm thinking about get one.
JohnsonM
St. louis, MO
Online Member
Posted - 18 September 2013 7:47  Show Profile  Email Poster  Edit or Delete Message  GoTo Member Rides
Thank You for your technician contribution. ;-)
Heisman
Manchester, MO
MWJT Director of PR
Posted - 18 September 2013 9:17  Show Profile  Email Poster  Edit or Delete Message  GoTo Member Rides
Looks good!
marvin
Fenton, MO
Club Member
Posted - 18 September 2013 17:2  Show Profile  Email Poster  Edit or Delete Message  GoTo Member Rides
What draglink and trac bar are you using? The alignment of the two looks almost perfect. If I end up keeping the JK then I will be looking at a PR44 for mine.
chrispy
, CO
Club Member
Posted - 18 September 2013 22:9  Show Profile  Email Poster  Edit or Delete Message  GoTo Member Rides
- drag link is the Currie Currectlync for JK, flipped, installed almost 2 years ago.

- Track Bar is the teraflex beefy one, ive had since i installed the lift in Jan 2010

both pieces re-used from previous setup
also reused the stock locker, the 5.38 gears i had, and the Spicer pro series shafts and joints i got from Spicer last year in Moab.

Mr Moke
St Peters, MO
MWJT Director of Events
Posted - 19 September 2013 7:8  Show Profile  Email Poster  Edit or Delete Message  GoTo Member Rides
You forgot two steps.

.5) Pay lots of money.
1.5) Pay lots of money.

I like your way of thinking though.
It appears this project took no time at all to complete.

jkelly64
St. Louis , MO
Club Member
Posted - 19 September 2013 19:58  Show Profile  Email Poster  Edit or Delete Message  GoTo Member Rides
How did you flip the drag link, drill out the taper and use a spacer with a taper?
chrispy
, CO
Club Member
Posted - 19 September 2013 20:32  Show Profile  Email Poster  Edit or Delete Message  GoTo Member Rides
jkelly, i dont know, honestly... thats how i did the stock one...

i believe the reid racing knuckles are drilled to flip the drag link

Details
The new Jeep Wrangler JK Dana 30/Rubicon 44 knuckles are heavy duty stock replacement knuckles. Raised steering linkage, dual steering stops, and increased strength are the primary improvements while installation is simplified by allowing the OEM -outers- to be reused.
*Uses stock 2007+ Jeep Wrangler JK brake rotors, calipers, stub shafts and U-joints.
*Fits JK Dana 30, JK Rubicon Dana 44, and Mopar & aftermarket JK axles.
*Easy bolt-on installation with no machining required.
*Aftermarket high strength axle shafts, U-joints/CV joints, and stub shafts can be used.
*Antilock Brakes, Traction Control, and Electronic Stability Control systems remain fully operational.
*Steering linkage is raised as high as possible while retaining clearance for OEM Jeep and most aftermarket wheels.
*Tie Rod gains 1.5 inches of clearance to minimize vulnerability to trail damage.
*Drag Link is flipped and gains 3 inches of height to perfectly correct the steering geometry for the common 3-4 inch suspension lift; minimizes additional steering correction for taller suspension lifts. Requires an aftermarket drag link, and we recommend a track bar bracket to eliminate bump steer.
*Cast from high strength ductile iron.
*Beefed up with extra material and ribbing.
*Cast-in DUAL steering stops eliminate bent stop bolts that can cause u-joint and axle failures.
*Cast-in DUAL steering stops eliminate bent stop bolts that can cause u-joint and axle failures.
*Tapered tie rod holes accept heavy-duty 1-ton tie rod ends used in most aftermarket steering linkage; factory tie rod ends may require slight modification.
*Tie rod holes can be drilled to accept 3/4 inch heim ends.
*Powder coated bright orange for long lasting looks.

STANG
Ofallon, MO
Club Member
Posted - 23 September 2013 19:56  Show Profile  Email Poster  Edit or Delete Message  GoTo Member Rides
Real jeeps are bought not built. :)
chrispy
, CO
Club Member
Posted - 25 September 2013 19:53  Show Profile  Email Poster  Edit or Delete Message  GoTo Member Rides
come on, wayne... ive installed several things myself. the CB antenna for one... and some stickers....oh, and the locking fuel fill cover...
little95-YJ
Hart of the barn. AKA Barnhart, MO
Online Member
Posted - 25 September 2013 21:51  Show Profile  Email Poster  Edit or Delete Message  GoTo Member Rides
Needs more chrome. Not nearly shiny enough.
Bounty Hunter

Honorary Lifetime,
Online Member
Posted - 26 September 2013 13:5  Show Profile  Email Poster  Edit or Delete Message  GoTo Member Rides
Chewy
Imperial, MO
Club Member
Posted - 28 September 2013 5:52  Show Profile  Email Poster  Edit or Delete Message  GoTo Member Rides
All jeeps are built...they start at the factory. :)
Modifications make bigger and better jeeps, or eventually buggies.
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