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Forums | Projects | TJ 5.2 Dodge Magnum SWAP Post Reply Send Topic To a Friend
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radar
Webster Groves, MO
Online Member
Posted - 26 July 2013 14:55  Show Profile  Email Poster  Edit or Delete Message  GoTo Member Rides
spent today ripping apart the front of the TJ. Used a 13mm socket/wrench for almost everything. I always wondered why people removed the battery and battery tray in all the pictures. It seemed unnecessary, but now I know. You can't get the fender off easily without removing it. What a PIA. I was going to remove the top of the battery tray for easier access, but two of the clips broke.

I left the driver's side fender and grill sitting in there because that's what everyone driving past can see.

I had to disconnect the front lamp wire harness from the firewall wire harness. There are a bunch of push clips that had to be pulled out.

Drained the radiator & disconnected the upper and lower radiator hoses. Plastic drain cock broke
(cheap POS), so i used a pair of locking pliers

loosened the A/C line going into the compressor, forgetting to Evac the system... stupid. Next time I'll take it somewhere and have them evac the system. Need to get a quick disconnect tool from HF.

Disconnected the rear drive shaft from the D35. left it connected to the t-case so I don't leak oil when I remove the engine.

Removed the 4 transmission bracket nuts

It took me about 5 hours for all of it with several breaks.

sorry for the detail. Hopefully, someone will find it useful.

Dave Julian
Fenton, MO
Online Member
Posted - 27 July 2013 5:32  Show Profile  Email Poster  Edit or Delete Message
Could you post some pics. Sounds like a good project. My buddy put a 5.9 in his TJ and made it look factory. If I remember right he only had trouble with his fuel gauge not working correctly but then fixed that.
Bounty Hunter

Honorary Lifetime,
Online Member
Posted - 28 July 2013 11:29  Show Profile  Email Poster  Edit or Delete Message  GoTo Member Rides
You can remove the rear driveshaft of a TJ without the fluid leaking out. The rear output seal seals around the shaft, not the slipyoke.
radar
Webster Groves, MO
Online Member
Posted - 28 July 2013 20:15  Show Profile  Email Poster  Edit or Delete Message  GoTo Member Rides
Thanks for the info. Last year I put an AX15 into a postal jeep with a I6 232 engine. A couple months later I found an 84 Grand Wagoneer with a 360 sitting in the Junk yard. Pulled the motor and started putting it in the DJ5C. In order to do that I had to pull the 232 with the 2wd AX15. I removed the prop shaft before removing the engine, and ended up with a huge oil spill while pulling the 232.

Back to the main event...
The 2.5L Engine is sitting in my drive way right now. Spent the last 2 days removing the engine and putting in the 5.2.

Had to remover the center console in order to remove the shifter and the T-Case Linkage. The previous owner lost some interesting stuff under there. Luckily, I've never had my car searched.

Had to remover the exhaust. Those hangers are difficult to remove, but they final came off with two flat head screw drivers and some locking pliers.

Had to remove the Steering shaft in order to remove the old motor mounts. I should have removed the dodge ram PS pump before I started the install, but didn't. That PS pump does not fit at all! I had to work some hoist magic to get it off.

I have a Frankenstein NP231 D-HD/J/241C. It has the HD case with the larger chain, the 241 (I think it was a 241) 6 Planetary Gears, and the shorter yolk from the GC 231J.

I Connected that T-Case to the NV3500 without any problems. I order an AX15 transmission mounting bracket, assuming this combo would work well in the TJ. I had to Grind down some of the bracket and put washers between the bracket and the transmission in order to get it installed without contacting the t-case. I assumed the new t-case/NV3500/AX15 bracket combo would sit further back than the stock ax5/231, so I purchased the shorter prop shaft present in a 4.0L AX15 TJ. I was wrong. Nothing Lined up well. The original shaft is a little snug and the shorter shaft doesn't even come close. The Engine was sitting to far back, scraping the body. I probably could get away with this setup, if I had a 1 in body lift. I don't have or want a body lift, so I'm going to modify the original AX5 Bracket. Its about an inch longer, and should allow everything to line well. I will have to drill new holes in it. It took me most of the afternoon to come to this conclusion. Oh Well.

Another small issue is the Driver's side motor mount. The Advance Adapter MM are design to be installed in a specific location. I planned to move them back a couple inches from that location, but (now I Know) I'll have to remove/modify the steering shaft perch in order to do that. Hopefully, modifying the mounting bracket will allow me to keep my stock drive shafts and put the driver's side mount in its intended spot.


That's it for now. I took a bunch of pictures that I will upload to flickr.

radar
Webster Groves, MO
Online Member
Posted - 28 July 2013 20:33  Show Profile  Email Poster  Edit or Delete Message  GoTo Member Rides
Let me know if this doesn't work.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/99387457@N03/sets/72157634832859341/with/9387122323/

radar
Webster Groves, MO
Online Member
Posted - 28 July 2013 20:37  Show Profile  Email Poster  Edit or Delete Message  GoTo Member Rides
One more thing... Anyone need a 2.5/ax5/231 combo? I'm thinking 550.
radar
Webster Groves, MO
Online Member
Posted - 31 July 2013 19:25  Show Profile  Email Poster  Edit or Delete Message  GoTo Member Rides
A couple people told me I need to stop being a p***y, get a 1in Body lift, and cut the Steering shaft support. So that's what I did. It was like hitting the easy button. I purchased an MORE 1in Body lift kit with aluminum Pucks.

Here's a little more detail on removing the old engine. In my research on this swap, I've found that most people don't provide much detail about this part. e.g. "I removed the engine" is about all you get. Hopefully my previous post on the matter and this will help someone.

When your removing the engine make sure to remove the A/C bracket. It will interfere with the new engine.

here are a couple things that needed to be removed and the socket I used
alternator Power - 10mm socket
Dryer Bottle Bracket = 8mm
Air box = 8mm
O2 sensor = 7/8
T-case linkage bolts to the transmission = 14mm (9/16)
Tranny and T-case Covers = 7 and 8mm

There are a couple ground wire on the(passenger Side) Fuse box harness and frame that need to be remove. They go to the frame, Firewall, and Engine. I think they were 13mm.

The Fuel line came out using one of the quick disconnects I purchased from HF. I was able to remove all of the A/C Lines and the fuel lines with the HF $4 quick disconnect kit.

In general, get short and deep well metric socket sets. A small metric socket set was useful for the 7 and 8mm stuff. Otherwise, I use 1/2 drive on everything else with an adjustable length ratchet. longer is better for rusted parts. A good cordless drill ( 1/2 and 3/8 drive bits)or an impact wrench are very helpful. I'm sure most of you already know this, but it never hurts to mention it.

If anything might get in the way remove it. It will save you time in the end!

Looking forward...

I loosened up the body mount bolts in anticipation of the lift. One of them doesn't want to spin, and I don't want to break it. I sprayed some liquid wrench, and I'll let it sit over night. I used a 5/8 socket on the mounts.

I have some pics of the interference issues I'm having. You might be able to see how a 1in body lift will alleviate the problem.

I realize I'm new, but feel free to critique or criticize any decision I've made or plan to make. Crispy didn't seem to have a problem :)

radar
Webster Groves, MO
Online Member
Posted - 31 July 2013 19:31  Show Profile  Email Poster  Edit or Delete Message  GoTo Member Rides
Here's another link to the photos. You'll probably need to cut and paste this link into your browser

http://www.flickr.com/photos/99387457@N03/sets/72157634832859341/

radar
Webster Groves, MO
Online Member
Posted - 12 August 2013 16:10  Show Profile  Email Poster  Edit or Delete Message  GoTo Member Rides
its been awhile since I posted, so here is an update.

sold the 2.5 for 520. Taking that into consideration I'm about 1500 into this so far.

I installed a 1in MORE body lift hoping it would make the AX15 mounting bracket fit, but that didn't work.

I ended up creating a hybrid mounting bracket from the AX5 bracket and a YJ Ax15 mounting bracket that I found at 111 Salvage Yard in IL. That worked well, but my slip yolk sticks out about 1/2 more than used to. Anyone have an idea on how to fix this? I thought a GC yolk would work, but the 4x4 is 6.5 (same as the tj)and the 4x2 yolk is a wide diameter. I'll let it go for now.

Motor mounts are welded in and painted. Engine is bolted in, and all the wiring is hooked up. I made my wire harness way to long. I'll post a picture, but I'll need to find a creative way to route all the wiring.

Used Fuel lines from the Truck. The 2.5 one will stretch, but its way to tight. If you have to get one from a truck, make sure you take the little gray clip from the frame fuel line that holds the two sections of fuel line together.

had the wire harness on the engine while I was test mounting it... not smart. broke the intake air temp and oil level connector. Fortunately, they're easy to fix. Grabbed a couple used ones from the junk yard, pulled the wires out of the old connectors, and put them in the new ones. That's one thing I learned from our wire harness supplier (Yazaky).

I put Synchromesh in my NV3500 and NP231. Does anyone see a problem with putting in the NP231? I've read that its bad for the NP231. Unless I hear different, I plan to replace it with something else.

Engine Started and Ran with no Fault codes expect for the purge solenoid which isn't hooked up. Real close to installing the Fenders, new Radiator, and Grill.
Then, I'll take it somewhere to do the exhaust. I planned to do that myself, but it sounds like a PIA. I spoke to neighbor that recommended MT Shiele on Watson. I called them, and they recommended Afton Muffle and Brake Stop. I'll call them in the next couple of days to get a price.


That's where I'm at. I have a lot of pics that I'll post.


little95-YJ
Hart of the barn. AKA Barnhart, MO
Online Member
Posted - 13 August 2013 22:13  Show Profile  Email Poster  Edit or Delete Message  GoTo Member Rides
Affton muffler knows there stuff and the price is right to better for the work they do. Your t-case should have tranny fluid in it if its a chain drive case which I think you have. Synchro mesh is a form of gear oil if memory serves me correctly.
praga77
St Louis, MO
Online Member
Posted - 15 August 2013 7:36  Show Profile  Email Poster  Edit or Delete Message
ATF for the 231.
radar
Webster Groves, MO
Online Member
Posted - 15 August 2013 19:9  Show Profile  Email Poster  Edit or Delete Message  GoTo Member Rides

radar
Webster Groves, MO
Online Member
Posted - 16 August 2013 16:45  Show Profile  Email Poster  Edit or Delete Message  GoTo Member Rides
Drained the tcase and did more electrical work. Broke the O2 sensor connector. Had a spare one, but found out that you can swap the ends of those very easily. It would be simple to switch the front and back sensors without cutting anything. Not sure that I'll ever need to do that, but might be useful.
radar
Webster Groves, MO
Online Member
Posted - 17 August 2013 5:49  Show Profile  Email Poster  Edit or Delete Message  GoTo Member Rides

Edited by - radar on 8/17/2013 5:54:08 AM

radar
Webster Groves, MO
Online Member
Posted - 17 August 2013 6:2  Show Profile  Email Poster  Edit or Delete Message  GoTo Member Rides
here's a link to my wiring diagrams

https://www.dropbox.com/s/jmv0ou4hm6xvnat/wiring%20diagrams.pdf

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